Brothers Jonathan and Raul Schmalzbach always talked about opening their own restaurant, and in May they made it happen. Jonathan, who maintains his job in educational publishing while handling the business end of things, said they called the restaurant Hamlet Bistro for two reasons: because Mount Airy feels like a "hamlet within the city" and because of many diners' Hamlet-like agonizing over what to order. Raul, who has worked at the Four Seasons, Treetops at the Rittenhouse and Striped Bass, is executive chef.

Hamlet Bistro is a cozy, funky little space with tables and booths that encourage either interaction or intimacy. Like Mount Airy itself, the Bistro welcomes all - from young couples to older groups of friends to families.

We began with shrimp and scallop dumplings ($8), crisply deep-fried, stuffed generously and served with a soy and fig dipping sauce. My companion ordered the special, a substantial chicken pot pie ($18) with a buttery, flaky puff pastry atop all-white meat, fresh vegetables and thick gravy. I chose the stuffed pork tenderloin ($18), tender medallions in a roasted shallot demi-glaze, stuffed with apples and onions and served with a purple potato hash. We topped off our meal with a warm, gooey brownie served with vanilla ice cream and fresh strawberries ($7).

The flank steak with a grilled tomato and broccoli tower ($18), topped with gorgonzola and served in a cherry demi-glaze, looked scrumptious. Wednesdays are Comfort Food Night, with specials that would make Mom proud.

An interesting and eclectic collection of art adorns Hamlet Bistro's walls, including works by Ed Adler, who has authored books on Beat artists; local artists; and pieces from Jonathan's wife's own collection.

Take in some drama at the Allens Lane Theater, a few blocks away. Mount Airy's First Fridays include special shopping hours, music, art exhibits and food. Visit www.mtairyusa.org for details.

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